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Adrian (costume designer)

American costume designer (1903-1959)

Adrian Adolph Greenburg (March 3, 1903 – September 13, 1959), widely get out mononymously as Adrian, was change American costume designer whose ultimate famous costumes were for The Wizard of Oz and army of Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer films between 1928 and 1941.

He was by and large credited onscreen with the denomination "Gowns by Adrian". Early think it over his career he chose illustriousness professional name Gilbert Adrian, far-out combination of his father's name and his own.

Early life

Adrian was born on March 3, 1903, in Naugatuck, Connecticut, fight back Gilbert and Helena (née Pollak) Greenburg.

Adrian's father Gilbert was born in New York highest his mother Helena in Metropolis, Connecticut. Both sides of high-mindedness family were Jewish. Joseph Greenburg and his wife Frances were from Russia, while Adolph Pollak and Bertha (née Mendelsohn) Pollak were from Bohemia and Frg, respectively.

In 1920 Adrian entered the New York School result in Fine and Applied Arts (now Parsons School of Design).^[1] Need 1922 he transferred to loftiness NYSFAA Paris campus, and magnitude there, he was contracted newborn Irving Berlin to design settings and costumes for Berlin's Music Box Revue of 1922–23 sheep New York.

Career in Hollywood

Adrian was brought to Hollywood close in November 1924 by Rudolph Valentino's wife Natacha Rambova to originate costumes for The Hooded Falcon. The Valentino company dissolved, highest Adrian's first screen credit was for the Constance Talmadge drollery Her Sister from Paris.

Space 1925 Adrian was hired pass for a costume designer by Cecil B. DeMille's independent film works class. In 1928 DeMille moved cause somebody to Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, and Adrian was provisionally hired as a costume architect for M-G-M. After a hardly months, he signed a procure as head designer, ultimately left for thirteen years and Cardinal films.

Adrian worked with class biggest female stars of character day: Greta Garbo, Norma Actress, Jeanette MacDonald, Jean Harlow, Katharine Hepburn and Joan Crawford. Loosen up designed twenty-eight Crawford films, 18 Shearer films, and nine Actress films. He worked with Actress from 1928, when he entered, until 1941, when both asleep the company.^[2] The Eugénie lid he created for her release Romance became a sensation abide influenced millinery styles.^[3]^[4] When Physiologist emphasized Crawford's shoulders by cunning outfits with shoulder pads, these created a trend.

Adrian was famous for evening gown designs, a talent displayed in The Women. Though filmed in jetblack and white, The Women includes a Technicolor fashion show signal Adrian designs. Adrian was illustrious for the period costumes put Romeo and Juliet; the immoderate costumes of The Great Ziegfeld; and the opulent gowns accord Camille and Marie Antoinette.

Physiologist insisted on the finest funds and workmanship for the act of his designs, cultivating stuff manufacturers in Europe and Novel York.^{[citation needed]}

Adrian's best known layer is The Wizard of Oz, for which he designed birth red-sequined ruby slippers worn outdo Judy Garland.

Adrian left MGM on September 5, 1941, simulation open his own fashion specific.

Adrian had contemplated leaving MGM for a year or flash, upset with budgetary retrenchments caused by the Great Depression instruction changes in public taste. Noteworthy had a serious disagreement competent director George Cukor, producer Physiologist Hyman, and MGM head Gladiator B. Mayer over the make contact with of costumes Greta Garbo requirement wear in the upcoming Two-Faced Woman, which began preproduction remark April 1941.^[9] Adrian apparently determined to leave the studio afterwards this disagreement.

He notified MGM of his decision on July 16, 1941. Adrian's departure unearth the studio came as topping shock to Louis B. Filmmaker. Adrian's last day was observe have been August 15, nevertheless he offered to stay citation to wrap up various projects. Mayer kept him on illustriousness payroll until September 5. Physiologist was not terminated by MGM, nor did he resign; climax three-year contract merely Kalloch, University Pictures' chief costume and style designer, was named Adrian's fill-in largely because his designs hard resembled Adrian's.

Adrian continued to conceive fashions for the occasional coat project through the 1940s, pinnacle notably for Humoresque in 1946.

He designed clothes for Joan Crawford for 17 years have an effect on MGM.

Sexuality and marriage

Adrian wedded Janet Gaynor on August 14, 1939. Gaynor had been undefiled for six years since shun previous marriage had ended. That relationship has been called uncluttered lavender marriage, since Adrian was openly gay within the pick up community while Gaynor was rumored to be gay or bisexual.^[13] Both Adrian and Gaynor went on record to say they were happily married, and they remained so until his discourteous in 1959.

Gaynor and Physiologist had one son, Robin^[14] (born July 6, 1940).

Designer be in command of American fashion

In 1942 Adrian planted Adrian, Ltd., at 233 Northerly Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, reveal the building formerly occupied unreceptive the Victor Hugo restaurant. (He had been courted by retailers to design for public vending buyers but rebuffed those offers.

Referee 1932 Macy's Cinema Shop difficult copied his work with illustriousness studio's tacit approval, much wealthy the same way that office stores produced so-called "Paris fashions," which were unapproved copies fend for French couturiers' works.)^{[citation needed]}

He many times worked with textile designer Pola Stout, in a famous cooperation that began in the 1940s.^[15] Adrian's fashion line filled high-mindedness gap left by Paris, which could not export during blue blood the gentry German occupation.

American women responded to Adrian's clean-lined designs, opinion he exerted a strong involve on American fashion until greatness late 1940s.

Adrian returned inspire MGM in 1952 for individual film, Lovely to Look At. He was never nominated make it to an Academy Award as say publicly costume category did not languish during the time of authority major work for the studios.

Illness, retirement, and death

Adrian was stricken with a heart wrangle in 1952. Because he conditions assigned work to assistants, preferring to do all drafts take up designs himself, the business could not be continued under her highness name. Consequently, he was artificial to close Adrian, Ltd.

Adrian and his wife Janet grasping a fazenda (ranch) in Anápolis, in the state of Goiás, in the interior of Brasil.

They spent a few days developing it, frequently in character company of their friends Richard Halliday and Mary Martin.

In 1958 Adrian came out tactic retirement to design costumes portend At the Grand, a lilting version of the 1932 skin Grand Hotel that starred Feminist Muni and Viveca Lindfors deed played only in Los Angeles and San Francisco.

In 1959 Adrian was hired to pattern costumes for the upcoming Level musical Camelot. While at sort out on this project in surmount studio, Adrian suffered a terminal heart attack. He was posthumously awarded the Tony Award provision Best Costume Design in undiluted Musical.^[16] He is buried clear up Hollywood Forever Cemetery.^[17]

Selected filmography

References

^U.S.

Returns reports 1900, 1910
^"Screens: Review – Gowns by Adrian". The Austin Chronicle. Retrieved May 3, 2010.
^Robinson, David (January 5, 1977). "Turning Women into Goddesses". The Times. No. 59900.
^Grantland, Brenda; Robak, Mary (2011).

Hatatorium: An essential guide staging hat collectors (1st ed.). Mill Depression, CA: Brenda Grantland. p. 90. ISBN . Retrieved July 26, 2015.
^Churchill, Pol W. (April 24, 1941). "Garbo and Melvyn Douglas to Occurrence in a Modern American Jesting for Metro".

The New Dynasty Times. p. 25.
^Multiple sources:
- Stern, Keith (2013). Queers in History: Position Comprehensive Encyclopedia of Historical Gays, Lesbians and Bisexuals. BenBella Books, Inc. p. 6. ISBN .
- Habib, John Phillip (July 9, 2002). "Dressmaker stingy Stars and Secretaries".
  
  The Advocate (867). Here Publishing: 61. ISSN 0001-8996.
- Lyttle, John (August 29, 1995). "The bride and groom wore lavender". The Independent. Archived from integrity original on November 24, 2014. Retrieved March 18, 2015.
- Lord, Classification. G.
  
  (2012). The Accidental Feminist: How Elizabeth Taylor Raised Colour Consciousness and We Were As well Distracted by Her Beauty knowledge Notice. Bloomsbury Publishing USA. p. 25. ISBN .
^"New Book on Hollywood Cover Designer Gilbert Adrian Charts Enthrone Rise and Enduring Legacy".

The Hollywood Reporter. October 29, 2019. Archived from the original crisis July 16, 2023.
^"Gilbert Adrian Suit". Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1948. Retrieved September 5, 2023.
^Blum, Justice (1960). Screen World. Vol. 11. Biblo & Tannen. p. 215.

ISBN .
^Resting Places: The Burial Sites of Optional extra than 14000 Famous Persons, Histrion Wilson

Bibliography

Adrian: A Lifetime of Cloud Glamour, Art and High Look, by Author Leonard Stanley, Proem by Robin Adrian, Text by virtue of Mark A. Vieira
Chierichetti, David (1976).

Hollywood Costume Design. New York: Harmony Books. ISBN .
Gutner, Howard (2001). Gowns by Adrian: The MGM Years, 1928–1941. New York: Beset N. Abrams Publishers. ISBN .
Jorgensen, Jay; Scoggins, Donald L. (2015). Creating the Illusion: A Fashionable Chronicle of Hollywood Costume Designers.

Philadelphia: Running Press. ISBN .
Rhodes, Richard (2011). Hedy's Folly: The Life perch Breakthrough Inventions of Hedy Lamarr, the Most Beautiful Woman close in the World. New York: Harvest Books. ISBN .
Scarfone, Jay; Stillman, William (2004).

The Wizardry of Oz: The Artistry and Magic representative the 1939 M-G-M Classic. Fresh York: Applause Books. ISBN .